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Showing posts with label Tibet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tibet. Show all posts

Reflections of Tibetan Resistance against China in the Streets of Dharmkot, Macledoganj

MacLeod Ganj, a hill station situated in Dharamshala, is the epicenter of the Tibetan government-in-exile and the residence of the 14th Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso. It is  known as the Tel Aviv of the hills due to a significant presence of the Israeli diaspora. This place hosts beautiful tourist attractions such as Dal Lake, Bhagsu Waterfall, St. John in the Wilderness Church, the Triund Trek, cafes, Tibetan food, stunning views, and the Tsuglagkhang Complex, also known as Namgyal Monastery (residence of the Dalai Lama). 

During my project assistantship at the Central University of Himachal Pradesh (CUHP), I often visited MacLeod Ganj on weekends. One Sunday, I decided to explore the city in search of  good coffee and a croissant, as suggested by my seniors, Places like Jimmy's Cafe and Kalimpong Restaurant were on top my list. As I walked down the Temple Road, I noticed a paper pasted on the walls, loudly pronouncing the slogan's of :

ONE EARTH, ONE FAMILY, ONE FUTURE
ONE LEADER!
BUT XI JINPING IS NOT WELCOME

TIBET'S INDEPENDENCE, INDIA'S SECURITY

#TibetMatters #TalkTibetNow

  "China's Diplomatic Assurances are not to be trusted"

It feels like that the poster was loudly protesting against the Chinese government, advocating for Tibetan independence and raising security concerns for India. Such posters are common in the streets of this town. They play a significant role in informing people about the current situation of Tibet under Xi Jinping's communist regime. In 2023, Penpa Tshering, head of Tibetan Government in exile said that " Tibet is dying a slow death due to the extinction of Tibetan language, culture, and religion, which are facing an unprecedented threat of eradication. Tibetan people are subjected to cruelty, repression, collective violence, persecution, and pervasive surveillance. 

Passing by that street, and reflecting on the struggles faced by Tibetan community. In the chilly December and the cold air, i was feeling frozen and then, I saw a roadside cafe, named "The Quality cafe". I stepped inside and ordered a coffee along with a Tibetan Cookie. As sun drowned, i headed towards my PG.  Overall, my weekends in MacLeod Ganj were not just about exploring scenic spots and tasting delicious food, but also about understanding the profound stories and struggles of its people.


Gyuto Monastery: A Haven of Tibetan Buddhism in Yole, Dharamshala

Gyuto Monastery, also known as the Dratsang and Gyuto Tantric Monastery, is an iconic symbol of Tibetan Buddhism. Situated in the lap of the Himalayas at Yole, often referred to as mini-Lhasa due to the significant presence of Buddhist monks in exile, the monastery is located around 8 kilometres from McLeod Ganj, the mini-Tibet in India. This sacred site is a testament to the resilience and spiritual richness of Tibetan Buddhism, which is also a prominent institute for the study and practice of the Gelugpa tradition of Tibetan tantric teachings.

An Buddhist Monk Walking towards Gyuto temple at monastery complex in Yole, Dharmshala.
An  Buddhist monk Walking towards Gyuto Temple at Monastery complex

As I sat there for some time, my legs were relaxed and my mind attuned to the rhythmic sounds of the surroundings, I was staring at the giant mountains. Suddenly, the police officer asked me, "Madam, do you regularly visit this place?”, I replied “No”. This sparked my curiosity, and I began asking him about the monastery. He began with, "Do you know the history of this place?" I said “No”, He replied;
Oh! Its history traces back to the 14th century in Tibet, where Jetsun Kunga Dhondup, a Tibetan monk, established two temples in 1475: Ramoche and Karmapa Temple. Both monasteries were originally located in Lhasa, Tibet. Karmapa Temple was the main tantric college of the Gelug tradition, attracting thousands of students. The monks of Gyuto are renowned for their tradition of overtone singing, known as "chordal chanting."

After the Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950, the Ramoche Temple became a primary target of the People's Liberation Army. People's liberation army indiscriminately shot Tibetans, whether they had participated in the resistance movement or not. The violent "Battle of Lhasa" saw the poorly prepared Tibetans forced to admission of defeat, allowing Mao to impose communist rule over Tibet. This led the Dalai Lama to flee to India with 60 monks, eventually finding refuge in Dharamshala.

Following his receipt of the Nobel Peace Prize, the Dalai Lama used financial grants to establish the Gyuto Karmapa Monastery, which now houses about 500 monks responsible for religious chanting and performing ceremonies. The monastery is typically based on Tibetan architecture. The walls of the monastery are painted yellow and red, matching the color of the door. After staying for a while, I approached the main temple complex, where a calm and golden statue of the Buddha stands as the focal point of peace and enlightenment. Multiple followers bow down their heads and pray. 

The surroundings are filled with tiny detailed embroidery and Mandala paintings on the roof. There is a high seat reserved for His Holiness the Dalai Lama, who occasionally visits the temple. Adorned with his picture in his absence, this seat showcases the importance of his leadership. Monks at Gyuto perform chordal chanting.

I sat there for almost an hour, in the cold winds and cloudy evening, listening to the laughs of the kids returning from their studies. The waves of their attire resonated with my mind. An accidental visit turned out to be the memorable moment of my life in Dharamshala.

Monastery is home to highly trained and knowledgeable monks who pass on the teachings of Buddha to upcoming generations. Hundreds of people visit this temple daily in search of knowledge, peace, culture, and religious beliefs. I was also one of them, visiting this remarkable place with a hungry stomach and tired legs, after returning from a field visit for a research project assigned by the Central University of Himachal Pradesh. My quest for food led me to the monastery's canteen, where a kind Buddhist monk offered me a Tibetan cookie and I ordered a cup of tea. After enjoying the tea and cookies, I walked towards the monastery to give rest to my legs and sat under a beautiful tree. A police officer from Kangra Police was already sitting there. Blend of bird's voice and the laughter of playing students felt like a symphony, with the monastery playing the role of an open theatre.
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